Two years ago I returned to Sierra Leone (Return to Freetown, Salone 2010). I made it through the chaos of Lungi Airport at night, stumbled onto a helicopter, and landed on the other side of the estuary. Waiting for me was the welcoming face of Kenawa Bernard, the brother of my good friend Betty Tenga. […]
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New Used Shoes
Today I took Maserai, Lucia and Mamie shopping. The second hand shoe seller was in town. I got permission from the principal to take the girls out of school and off we went. I could tell it was a Big Day for the girls when they insisted on changing out of their school uniforms and […]
Home to Sumbuya
When we rolled into Sumbuya, Maserai came running. Her hug was warm and we were soon joined by Lucia and Mamie. The girls wear rags and I’m reminded that their best clothes are their school uniforms. Everyone crowds into the parlour as I hand out cloth for new lappas and my big surprise–framed photos from […]
Through the North
Back. On this trip I’ll first go to Kabala in the north. Kenawa has been hard to contact and I learned that he’s been seriously ill. With regrets, we promise to meet up on my return through Freetown. I arrange a jeep and driver through a Lebanese friend—not Kenawa, but I’m ready to be a […]
Rocking in Freetown
Imagine a circular building with a stage in the middle. Open all the doors and windows. Give all the women fans. Have a balcony encircle the entire building. The place is packed. Women in print dresses and matching hats–big floppy ones. Men in white shirts and ties. Everyone dressed for a wedding—but it’s only Sunday. […]
Return to Freetown
Freetown has changed. In 2000 it was a place of U.N., ECOMOG and Sierra Leonean soldiers. Too many sneering boys in combat fatigues with fingers twitching along the barrels of AK-47s. A nation of people who hadn’t slept in a decade. The airport is still chaotic but there are fewer uniforms. Bags still fall off […]