Mohamed is the local Community Health Officer. He has 3 years of training after high school. With this professional background he stitches wounds, performs minor surgeries, and treats malaria. Today I rode with Mohamed on his motorbike to his health centre in Mombajo. His first patient was a young 20 year old woman who was […]
Sierra Leone
Home to Sumbuya
When we rolled into Sumbuya, Maserai came running. Her hug was warm and we were soon joined by Lucia and Mamie. The girls wear rags and I’m reminded that their best clothes are their school uniforms. Everyone crowds into the parlour as I hand out cloth for new lappas and my big surprise–framed photos from […]
Through the North
Back. On this trip I’ll first go to Kabala in the north. Kenawa has been hard to contact and I learned that he’s been seriously ill. With regrets, we promise to meet up on my return through Freetown. I arrange a jeep and driver through a Lebanese friend—not Kenawa, but I’m ready to be a […]
Rocking in Freetown
Imagine a circular building with a stage in the middle. Open all the doors and windows. Give all the women fans. Have a balcony encircle the entire building. The place is packed. Women in print dresses and matching hats–big floppy ones. Men in white shirts and ties. Everyone dressed for a wedding—but it’s only Sunday. […]
Return to Freetown
Freetown has changed. In 2000 it was a place of U.N., ECOMOG and Sierra Leonean soldiers. Too many sneering boys in combat fatigues with fingers twitching along the barrels of AK-47s. A nation of people who hadn’t slept in a decade. The airport is still chaotic but there are fewer uniforms. Bags still fall off […]
Sumbuya days
I awaken to the muezzin’s call to prayers—still dark, 6 am. I hear the sound of chopping wood, voices around the cooking fire. I am staying with Madame Yeamah, the aunt of my friend Jose Tenga. Madame Yeamah is the mammy queen, the most powerful woman in Sumbuya. I am drawn to the three girls […]