Freetown has changed. In 2000 it was a place of U.N., ECOMOG and Sierra Leonean soldiers. Too many sneering boys in combat fatigues with fingers twitching along the barrels of AK-47s. A nation of people who hadn’t slept in a decade. The airport is still chaotic but there are fewer uniforms. Bags still fall off […]
travel
Sumbuya days
I awaken to the muezzin’s call to prayers—still dark, 6 am. I hear the sound of chopping wood, voices around the cooking fire. I am staying with Madame Yeamah, the aunt of my friend Jose Tenga. Madame Yeamah is the mammy queen, the most powerful woman in Sumbuya. I am drawn to the three girls […]